Installation of Trim
Install the trim after the wall has been prepared with moisture barrier and furring if needed. 2x2s on the inside corners go up first (see Inside Corners). Windows & doors are trimmed next. The various trim pieces for vents, light fixtures & electrical outlets are pictured on the next page and can be fabricated at the job site or purchased from Modulog Industries. Electrical service boxes can be trimmed with 2x2s. Exterior piping can be boxed in with one inch material like 1x4s or 1x6s. Window and trim should be at least 1 3/4” thick. This allows a “shoulder” to caulk against, making a neater finished look. Use 10d or 12d hot dipped galvanized casing nails to intall trim.
Inside Corners
On inside corners, to avoid having to make miter cuts, (which never match up right) use 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 inside corner trim piece. This allows you to make nice square cuts.
Window & Door Trim
Build a frame with mitered corners for all windows and doors. Cut the window trim pieces to a length that will allow an eighth inch caulking space between the vinyl & the trim (finish cut measure plus 1/4 inch). For best results, each window and door frame should be assembled on a solid, flat surface and nailed into place as a whole unit rather than one “leg” at a time.
Place and fasten each vent, light mount and outlet trim. Caulk inside, where the frame meets the vinyl, as well as outside along the curve of the siding. Make sure you mark corresponding 7” increments up each side of the window or door to insure your seam lines are level as you approach the top.
Alternative Outside Corners
Entrance ways and alcoves present situations where solid log ends are not always appropriate, because they effectively extend the wall by six inches. If their use would restrict passage or cause a design problem use the alternate corner pictured below. A solid cedar 4x4 has been routed or ripped to allow a snug fit against the corner in an “L” shape.
