To determine the number of log ends needed, simply measure the height in inches of each corner of the house where crisscrossing log corners are desired. Measure from where the siding starts at the bottom to where it stops under the eaves. Half will be rights and half will be lefts.
On smaller homes and manufactured homes, log ends on the four corners of the home are usually all that is needed to give an authentic log appeal.
Quick Start Guide
Log siding can be easy to install with the right tools. About half of Modulog installations are done by the homeowner perhaps with the help of a friend or relative while the other half doesn’t have the time or inclination and hires a local contractor to perform the work. The Installation Guide video will show you each phase of the job and will also familiarize you with the few construction techniques that differ from ordinary siding installation. We recommend watching our step by step video instruction to learn more about the Modulog package.
Start with the Takeoff Sheet
So that the correct amount of siding is delivered to your site the measurement of the areas to be covered are needed. Use the Modulog Takeoff Sheet to record the dimensions of the project. Download the file and print it out to use as a worksheet and checklist while measuring. Be sure to include the gables, all doors and windows as well as the number of corners, then count the quantity of accessories and trim and color of stain desired. Modulog Takeoff Sheet can also be downloaded from the Request Quote page
Corner to Corner
Modulog Custom Log Ends and Trim
Modulog Custom Log Ends and Trim
Optional 'L' Corner
Larger homes have other corners such as entrance ways, alcoves and jog outs where log ends either restrict space or would give a log overkill look. For these areas Modulog offers an optional square corner trim or 'L' corner. If optional 'L' corner trim is needed for your project check the box next to the corner height on the takeoff sheet.
Accessories and Trim
Modulog also provides a number of rustic trim items that eliminate the need to fabricate these pieces on the job site. Besides speeding up the job, their rustic design enhances the final look of your home. Take note of the number of trim items you need such as outside light fixtures, electrical outlets, dryer vents, hose bibs, inside corners and screened vents.
Straight vs. Level
Is it really level?
Sometimes houses are not perfectly level especially manufactured homes. For this reason it is necessary to snap a reference line so the siding is applied square with the house. Measure down from the underside of the eaves at each corner of the house to a point where the top of the first course of the siding will be. Connect these points with a snapped chalk line. This ensures that the siding is installed parallel with the roof line of the home.
Mark the wall at the top edge of first board - 7-1/2" up from bottom
At each corner of the home mark to snap a chalk line corner to corner
The chalk line is a reference line that should be parallel with the roof line
Fastening to the Wall
Modulog siding needs to be fastened at the studs.
Locate the studs and mark the wall vertically at each stud location.
On new construction the studs are easy to find and mark. The studs under T-111 or panel siding on manufactured homes are easy to locate as well.
If installing over lap siding, it is necessary to take the time to locate the studs with a stud finder and mark their location. A furring strip will need to be installed over the existing siding and into the stud with 2-1/2" nails or screws.
Remodeling applications on site built homes may present situations where Modulog siding is applied over a thicker substrate. If the underlying material is at least 3/4 of an inch thick it is stable enough to hold fasteners eliminating the need to find the studs.
Modulog siding must be fastened through the face of the log at the top and bottom of each piece. A 16" spacing between fasteners is recommended, while 24" spacing is the maximum allowed.
Modulog provides the recommended 2" stainless steel staples with every package for fastening. They are 7/16" x 2" crown staples made with #304 stainless steel and will fit in any standard 7/16" crown stapler.
The top staple should be installed 1" from the top edge of the board which is about 1/2" down onto the finished face. The bottom staple should be installed about 1" up from the bottom of the siding. This placement of staples allows for 1" of penetration in the substrate and framing.
Locate and Mark the studs
Locate the studs and mark the wall vertically at each stud location.
Fastening at each stud location allows the siding to be fastened where the wall is strongest.
If installing over lap siding, furring strips can be installed over the studs to create a flat surface.
Fasten at Top and Bottom
Modulog siding must be fastened through the face of the log at the top and bottom of each piece.
Two fasteners are driven into each stud, one near the top and one near the bottom.
Furring strips may also be needed in some cases to flush out an end wall and provide a flat surface to install on.
The Staples Disappear
The advantage of staples is that when the crowns are driven lengthwise with the grain of the wood they virtually disappear.
Using stainless steel staples is recommended as they will never rust or bleed those ugly black lines down your siding from common fasteners.
Cut to Fit
Care should be taken to make square cuts so that the joints fit tightly together.
The first piece of siding is placed parallel with the reference line and flush with the corner of the building. A corner assembly right or left as the case may be is set in place making sure it fits it's mate snugly. Continue this course to the opposite corner of the house keeping on the reference line.
The horizontal seams of each course of the Modulog siding is set tightly shoulder-to-shoulder with a 1/2" shiplap style overlap with the piece below. No expansion gap is needed.
A metal Junction flashing provided with the package should be installed behind each butt joint. The butt joints are sealed with a bead of caulking before they are slid together.
It is easiest to start each row of siding at the corners with the log ends and work toward the middle of the wall from each end. It is much easier to cut a filler piece between two log ends than trying to measure a log end cut.
It is important to keep the siding seams on each side of the door and window trims the same height so that the seams match the top of the door or window.
Each piece needs to be cut to make a square end
Each piece of siding and trim will need to be cut with a miter saw to create a flat tight joint.
Junction flashing and sealant at the joints
A metal Junction flashing provided with the package should be installed behind each butt joint. The butt joints are sealed with a bead of caulking before they are slid together.
Start at the corners and work to the center
It is easiest to start each row of siding at the corners with the log ends and work toward the middle of the wall from each end.
Tricky cuts
Last row of siding
Here's how to cut that last row of siding under the soffit or eave:
It is a rare wall that is divisible by exactly 7 inch increments. This means the last course of siding under the soffit will most likely have to be ripped to somewhat less than 7 inches to fit. A log end assembly is not used on the top row of siding where a full piece will not fit. Instead a 45 degree miter cut is used at these corners.
Measure from the finish edge of the siding up to where the last row might touch the soffit. Subtract 1/8".
Then use a table saw or circular saw from the back side to rip the siding to the desired height.
Sometimes the soffit is not perfectly flat and varies along the wall. If this is the case, measure the height every 2-4 feet and record the measurements then mark the board with the same layout and height to create a custom line that can easily be followed on the table saw or skill saw.
Last Row
Measure from the finish at the bottom up to where the siding will touch at the top. Subtract 1/8".
The use a table saw, or circular saw from the back side, to rip the siding to the desired height.
Miter the corners
Use a 45 degree miter cut at the corners on the top row. Be sure to use sealant to glue the joint together.
A 15 gauge angled finish nailer with galvanized nails can be used to fasten the miter joint together and install the last row of siding. A standard stapler may not fit against the eave to be able to install the last row.
Gable Walls
Gable cuts made easy - "What was that angle again?"
Cutting the siding for the gable ends can be tricky.
Here we will show you a simple way to make the perfect cut every time.
Rather than trying to calculate the roof pitch, simply cut a small sample of siding about 6" long. Set the sample piece on the wall where the next row of siding will go.
Slide the sample over to where it just touches eave above. Mark the bottom edge of the sample piece where it stops on the row below.
Carefully determine where the siding will end at a point against the eave. Measure from the mark over to where the sharp point of the siding will come in contact with the eave.
Use a sample piece
Slide the sample over to where it just touches eave above.
Mark the bottom
Mark the bottom edge of the sample piece where it stops on the row below.
Measure
Measure from the mark over to where the sharp point of the siding will come in contact with the eave.
Let's say this is 15"
Measure and mark the back side
On the back side of the siding measure along the bottom finished edge and mark out the length from the point the same 15" from the gable.
Now square a line from the mark to the top side of the board.
Connect the marks
Using a straight edge, connect the marks from the point to the top of the square line and draw a line.
Cut from the back side
Using a circular saw from the back side to make the cut.
Be sure to setup proper support for both sides of the cut and be careful with the sharp point.
Tools and Techniques
An installation booklet is available to download.